Ruijie & Sascha
Trail of China · May 2025
Hangzhou
Marco Polo called Hangzhou 'the finest city in the world' — and 700 years later, West Lake still earns the title. The tea hills behind it make it a perfect day escape from Shanghai.
Why You'll Love It
There are famous lakes, and then there's West Lake. It's been the subject of Chinese poetry and painting for 1,200 years, and when you see it — the causeways stretching across still water, the pagodas on the far shore, the willows trailing their branches in the shallows — you understand why. The lake is free, it's in the center of the city, and you can bike its entire perimeter in 90 minutes. That alone makes Hangzhou worth the trip.
But the real secret is the tea. The Longjing (Dragon Well) tea hills rise directly behind the lake, and the village at the top is where China's most prestigious green tea is grown and processed. You can walk into a farmer's house, sit at their kitchen table, and drink tea that was picked that morning while looking down at the lake below. No reservation, no tour, no ticket. Just walk up the hill and find a farmhouse with their door open. They'll pour you tea and sell you some if you want. It's one of the most genuine experiences you can have in China.
Lingyin Temple gets crowded, but the cave carvings in Feilai Peak beside it don't — hundreds of Buddhist figures carved into the limestone between the 10th and 14th centuries, scattered along forest paths. Walk past the main temple entrance and into the hillside paths. Most tour groups never get past the incense-burning courtyard.
About Hangzhou
Hangzhou (杭州) is 170 km southwest of Shanghai, a 45–60 minute ride on the G-series bullet trains from Shanghai Hongqiao. It's been one of China's most important cities for over a millennium — capital of the Southern Song dynasty (1127–1279), and a center of silk, tea, and Buddhist culture. Marco Polo visited in the late 13th century and famously described it as "the finest and most splendid city in the world."
West Lake (西湖) is the centerpiece — a 6.4 km² freshwater lake surrounded by gardens, temples, and causeways. It's free to access 24 hours a day. The two most famous causeways are the Su Causeway (苏堤, 2.8 km) and the Bai Causeway (白堤, 1 km), both lined with willow trees and peach blossoms. Shared bikes are available at every entrance; cycling the full perimeter is the best way to see it.
Lingyin Temple (灵隐寺, ¥75 entry including Feilai Peak) is one of China's wealthiest and most important Buddhist monasteries, founded in 326 AD. The adjacent Feilai Peak (飞来峰) has over 300 Buddhist stone carvings tucked into caves and cliff faces along forested walking paths — many predating the temple itself.
Longjing Tea Village (龙井村, free) sits in the hills above the lake's southwest corner. You can reach it on foot (30-minute uphill walk from the lake) or by DiDi. The terraced tea fields produce China's most celebrated green tea, and local farmers welcome visitors for tastings and purchases at farmhouse prices. Spring harvest (late March through April) is peak season — the hills are alive with pickers and the fresh tea is at its best.
Practical Details
Getting There
From Shanghai Hongqiao Railway Station, take any G-series bullet train to Hangzhou East Station (杭州东站). The journey takes 45–60 minutes and costs ¥73 (second class) or ¥117 (first class). Trains depart every 5–10 minutes from roughly 6 AM to 9 PM. Book tickets on Trip.com or the 12306 app in advance — especially morning departures on weekends, which sell out days ahead.
From Hangzhou East Station to West Lake: Take Metro Line 1 to Fengqi Road Station (凤起路站), about 20 minutes, ¥4. Walk south 10 minutes to the lake's northeast corner. Alternatively, a DiDi from Hangzhou East to the lake costs ¥25–35 and takes 15–20 minutes.
For the return trip, the last G-series train from Hangzhou East to Shanghai Hongqiao typically departs around 9:30 PM. Check the schedule on the day — seasonal adjustments are common. If you're staying for dinner and a night view of the lake, book a later train.
What to Skip
The "Impression West Lake" evening show — it's a Zhang Yimou-directed outdoor performance on the lake, and while technically impressive, tickets start at ¥300 and the narrative is incomprehensible unless you speak fluent Mandarin. You'll get a more authentic (and free) West Lake experience by walking the Su Causeway at sunset.
Skip the boat tours that circle the lake — they're ¥50–150 for a slow, crowded ride. If you want to be on the water, rent a rowboat from one of the lakeside docks (¥150/hour, negotiable). You row yourself, it's peaceful, and the lake is yours.
The commercial tea shops near the Leifeng Pagoda entrance sell overpriced Longjing tea in gift packaging. The real tea is up the hill in Longjing village — half the price, ten times the quality, and you get to talk to the person who grew it.
Photography Tips
The classic West Lake shot is from the Su Causeway, looking south toward the distant hills with a willow-framed foreground. Early morning fog (common in spring and autumn) creates a painterly effect — arrive before 7 AM when the causeway is empty and the mist hangs low over the water.
Leifeng Pagoda at sunset is the money shot. The pagoda is on the lake's south shore, and the sun sets behind the hills to the west, painting the sky. The pagoda itself is a modern reconstruction with an elevator — purists groan, but the observation deck at the top gives the best elevated view of the entire lake. Sunset hours vary by season; check locally.
In Longjing village, the best photos are of the tea pickers at work (spring only — late March through April). Ask before photographing individuals, but the terrace landscapes are fair game. A 50mm lens captures the rolling hills and tea rows beautifully; switch to a wide angle to include the lake visible below the terraces.
Essential Information
Location
Discover Hangzhou with a Local
Book a private Hangzhou day tour from Shanghai with hotel pickup, train tickets, and an English-speaking guide who knows the best tea farmhouses and hidden West Lake viewpoints.
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